75% Superwash Merino, 25% Nylon

…a typical ratio of popular hand-dyed yarns and such familiar words to many of us. Oftentimes, we don’t even need to read it properly and instead can give the label a quick scan. But what exactly is Superwash wool? Is it eco-friendly?

What is Superwash Wool?

I thought I was knowledgeable when I could answer this question. “It’s yarn that we don’t need to hand-wash as it can go into a washing machine without felting or shrinking”.

Well, yes…

I knew it must have gone through some sort of process, but I didn’t feel the need to question it. Like many of my fellow crafters, I could enjoy the peace of mind. If my hand-makes find their way in with the rest of the laundry, it isn’t the end of the world.

It wasn’t until later that I realized the common method of producing this yarn removes many of natural wool’s benefits. More alarmingly, it uses hazardous materials which in some cases can be released into the environment. Yet another side-effect of our society’s need for a quicker, easier, consumer lifestyle.

Anyway, let’s have a look at the facts. Then, you can make up your own mind if you feel happy to support this side of the yarn industry.

We shall talk about:

• The Structure Of Wool Fibre
• The Hercosett Superwash Treatment
• Environmental Impact
• Alternative Options 

The Structure Of Wool Fibre

Let’s first take a look at an artist’s impression of the structure of wool fibre under a microscope:

You can see it has a scaly outside surrounding an inner core. The scaly outside is ‘hydrophobic’, meaning it repels water. The inner core, however, is ‘hydrophilic’, which means it readily absorbs water.

This hydrophilic core gives the wool it’s ability to absorb around 30% of it’s weight in moisture, without feeling wet. This is because the water remains on the inside and what you’re touching is the hydrophobic water-repellent surface.

This structure also gives wool fibre the ability to transport water. For example, if you’re sweating it can transfer the moisture out from the skin’s surface.

All of these characteristics naturally benefit the animals that grow such fibre. Natural wool also dries relatively quickly and does not retain smells. Therefore, the sheep can tolerate exposure to light rains and stay waterproof.

The scaly surface of the wool fibres creates a kind of ‘Velcro’ effect when they rub against each other. This characteristic is also why you should not expose wool to sudden temperature changes. For example, when you soak wool fibre in hot water, the scales of the surface lift up a little.

With a gradual decrease in temperature, these scales will slowly return to their relaxed state. The yarn remains as single strands. However, if there is a sudden lowering of temperature, this shocks the fibre. The scales ‘interlock’ and grip to each other. You may be familiar with what happens during this process: it felts!

The Hercosett Superwash Treatment

For those who want to make use of wool for the yarn industry,
some of these characteristics of wool can be problematic. Especially with a demand for convenience and usability,

To overcome such issues, the ‘Hercosett Superwash Treatment’ uses chlorinated chemicals to strip the fibre of its scaly outer surface. It then replaces this with a synthetic coating, that makes the wool more resistant to temperature changes. It also makes it tolerant to agitation so felting or shrinking does not occur. All in all, making the fibres washing-machine friendly.

However, as the hydrophobic scaly surface is no longer present, the fibre loses its ability to repel water. It also cannot transport moisture as effectively. Although the absorbant core is still present, what you’re actually touching – the surface of the yarn – is not natural wool. It is instead this new synthetic coating.

Environmental Impact 

This process, which uses large amounts of water as well as dangerous substances, leads to significant pollution of wastewater. On average, for 100kgs of this ‘Superwash’ yarn, this process consumes approximately 44.5kgs of environmentally hazardous substances*

I wish I can give you more statistics on how this treatment affects our planet. Unfortunately, it is difficult to measure. Nonetheless, what can’t be denied, is that non-superwash wool does not go through this process. These harsh chemicals and pollutants are therefore avoided.

Alternatives to Superwash

Organic cotton and linen are MY current favorites. They’re cruelty-free, durable fibres that can certainly withstand a more vigorous washing than natural wool. However, I know that for some they just don’t provide the ‘squish factor’ many crocheters and knitters adore.

I am happy to say that the Hercosett treatment is not the only method in practice. A few years ago, the ‘SUPERWOOL LIFE Project’ lead to improved methods to shrink-proof wool. Instead of using chemicals to strip and resurface wool fibre, textile scientists discovered a new technique. Successful results were obtained by physically altering the yarn by passing it through electrodes and coating the yarn with plasma. This is an environmentally-friendly process which does not use excess water or such hazardous materials.

But how do we know which treatment a yarn supplier uses? Well, all we can do is ask them, however in some cases we might not be granted with an answer. If a yarn company strives to provide eco-friendly choices, they’re probably going to advertise their kinder methods to us.

One such company is Rosy Green Wool, who tick many of the boxes of a conscious crafter. They don’t specify how their yarn bases have a label of ‘machine washable’. However, they do carry the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification. They also completely avoid copper for dyeing even though the GOTS allows it in small amounts.  You can find links to the results of tests carried out on their wool, on the Rosy Green Wool website.

Superwash wool is still a popular choice for those who like to hand-dye yarns. This is partly due to the demand from their customers and friends. It is, however also because the fibre absorbs water and dye much more quickly than wool in it’s natural state. Again, making it a great option for conveniences’ sake.

The good news is, many hand-dyed skeins are not necessarily superwash wool. We simply need to take that extra moment to check out the material which the fibre artist uses. In this way, we can be more mindful. More mindful of the choices we’re making while searching for the perfect yarn for our next project.

But what if my favourite indie dyer currently uses superwash wool?

Those beautiful colourways out there are hard to resist…

Well, if you’d like to avoid supporting this processed wool, I’d recommend you ask them if there are other options available. I personally believe communication and understanding is a far more peaceful approach to more eco-friendly living. I’m sure their experience and expertise will enable you to settle at a happy compromise, if they’re willing and able.

Unfortunately for you lovers of a bit of sparkle, most of these fingering weight yarns are made using Superwash merino. This leads me to a favour I’d like to ask…

Maybe you are a hand-dyer and know of other options available. Or, perhaps even if you’re not a dyer, you can provide further information. Either way, please get in touch via social media or comment on this post.

Now, a warning & some of my personal opinions on this matter…

A Warning

Textile labels show a vast array of symbols and it is important that we respect these guidelines. Therefore, I want to stress something to my fellow fibre-enthusiasts… This term ‘machine washable’ in the yarn industry is not as simple as it sounds. You cannot simply throw your hand-makes in a standard daily wash.

Oftentimes, as far as wool is concerned, we should only mechanically wash it on a gentle wool cycle. It is also recommended the item be washed alone, without other items to be laundered inside the drum. The temperature should also be set to low – no more than 30 degrees celsius (86 degrees farenheit). Essentially, replicating a hand-washing.

My Personal Opinion

I would also like to express that I don’t believe a positive future and convenience necessarily go hand-in-hand.

I think most of us are aware of the higher price we pay to support the smaller, run-from-home businesses. In return we gain a higher-quality, unique product. We also gain the communication with an artist willing to collaborate and cater to our preferences. More so than what a mass-produced item can provide.

An amazing thing happens when we also accept that some things take time and energy, such as hand-washing our FO’s. It can actually be quite a therapeutic practice. A little ritual of gratitude. A time to empty our minds of our daily worries and learn to appreciate the simpler things in life.

So with all that said, now is as good a time as any to embark on a journey… To craft a life closer to nature, with care for our world.

Let’s continue to Consciously Crochet together and share our learnings along the way,

Consciously Crochet Xx

Further Reading & Watching:

*http://ec.europa.eu/environment/life/project/Projects/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.dspPage&n_proj_id=2888&docType=pdf

Click here to watch a brilliant video on the science of superwash wool, by Anna of ‘dunkelgrun’ on YouTube.