Hello my fellow fiber friends! Here’s my free crochet pattern, the Solstice blanket – or doily! It’s a classic 24-pointed sunflower shape and is easy for beginners. Make it to suit any size, from baby blanket to bedspread!
As I often say, I’m inspired by nature and the seemingly endless patterns which can be observed around us. Take a look at a variety of plants. You might notice the regular growth formations of succulents, or the outwardly spiraling seeds of a Sunflower.
These patterns are reflected in the Fibonacci Sequence – something I recall learning during Mathematics as a child. This natural phenomena has captivated mathematicians, artists, designers, and scientists for centuries.
Some of my favorite crochet projects I’ve made in the past also have this basic, rhythmic characteristic. Interestingly enough, the finished pieces haven’t looked simple! Why are such patterns so addictive?
- They’re easy to pick up without the need to look back at instructions
- Their stitch design, while easy to remember, has just enough detail to keep you interested
- They look intricate
- You can change colour upon the start of a new row whenever you like. Or use a gradient yarn and you’ll not want to put the project down! The anticipation of seeing how the next color looks!
- You can just keep going! The pattern allows you to make your finished piece any size you like. From a doily to a blanket: baby size, lap blanket, or afghan!
I feel like I have achieved all of the above with my latest free crochet pattern, ‘Solstice’. With the Summer Solstice approaching, what better way to celebrate our native star?
The design is worked in rounds of increasing ripples. Of course, I opted for a happy yellow shade. It’s called “Buttercup” and is King Cole’s Big Value Recycled Cotton Aran. This yarn has a surprisingly soft feel. There are fluffy spots as well as texture to give it a rustic quality. It is also ethical as it is kind to animals (and vegan – the sheep say ‘Thank You!’), and environmentally friendly. I loved it so much that I have chosen this same yarn for another 3 designs. They’ll be available later in the year.
You can of course use any yarn you like. As I mentioned earlier, you can make this piece any size you desire.
Find the free crochet pattern below. For a printer-friendly PDF version, click here to be taken to Ravelry. There, you can download it for a small fee. In return, you’ll receive the 7-page PDF complete with a chart, extra tips and informative help. By occasionally supporting my little, run-from-home business, I am able to continue sharing my designs for free. A win-win for all!
Solstice
CROCHET BLANKET
Designed by Consciously Crochet
SKILL LEVEL
Easy – Basic stitches & repetitive stitch patterns
HOOK SIZE
5mm / US H-8
MATERIALS
- KING COLE Big Value Recycled Cotton Aran (85% cotton, 15% other fibres, 100g/160m),
Colour A Buttercup (Shade 1167) – 8 balls
ADDITIONAL MATERIALS
- Yarn Needle
- Scissors
GAUGE
13 sts and 8 rows of dc to measure 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”) using a 5mm hook or size required to obtain tension, without blocking.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
121cm (47½”) across diameter from point to point, without blocking.
STITCHES USED (US TERMS)
chain
double crochet
slip stitch
SPECIAL STITCHES
Magic Ring – I have opted for a Magic Ring at the start of the design, as I personally prefer this method, however you can alternatively chain 4 and slip stitch in the first chain to create a ring instead.
V-Stitch – 1dc, 2ch, 1dc
Shell – 2dc, 2ch, 2dc
Chainless Starting Double Crochet (optional) – see tutorial here: how-to-crochet-special-stitches/
ABBREVIATIONS
ch – chain
ch#sp – chain space (‘#’ denotes number of chains)
dc – double crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
V-st(s) – V-stitch(es)
NOTES
Worked in the round, using V-stitch & shell increases to create 24 pointed sections. At the end of each round you can find the number of stitches completed for that round in squared brackets, like so: “[12sts]”.
INSTRUCTIONS
In a Magic Ring, using Colour A:
Round 1: ch3 (counts as 1dc), 11dc, sl st in top of ch3 to join. [12sts]
Round 2: ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc in same st, *2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * in top of ch3 to join. [24sts]
Round 3: ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc in same st, 1dc in next st, *2dc in next st, 1dc in next st* repeat from * to * in top of ch3 to join. [36sts]
Round 4: ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc in same st, 1dc in each of next 2sts, *2dc in next st, 1dc in each of next 2 sts* repeat from * to * in top of ch3 to join. [48sts]
Round 5: 5ch (counts as 1dc and 2ch), 1dc in next st, *1dc in next st, ch2, 1dc in next st*, repeat from * to * in 3rd ch to join. [24 ch2sps, with 2dc between]
Round 6: sl st into next ch2sp, ch5 (counts as 1dc and 2ch), 1dc into same ch2sp, *skip next 2 sts, in the next ch2sp, make: 1dc, 2ch, 1dc (V-stitch)*, repeat from * to * 22 more times. Skip next 2 sts, sl st into 3rd ch to join. [24 V-sts]
Round 7: repeat round 6. [24 V-sts]
Round 8: sl st into next ch2sp, ch3 (counts as 1dc), in same ch2sp make: 1dc, ch2, 2dc. *skip next 2 sts, in the next ch2sp, make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell)*, repeat from * to * 22 more times. Skip next 2 sts, sl st into 3rd ch to join. [24 shells]
Round 9: sl st into next st, ch3 (counts as 1dc), in next ch2sp make V-st, 1dc in next st, *skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next st, in the next ch2sp, make V-st, 1dc in next st*, repeat from * to * 22 more times. Skip next 2 sts, sl st in top of ch3 to join. [24 V-sts with 1dc either side of V-st]
Round 10: repeat Round 9. [24 V-sts with 1dc either side of V-st]
Round 11: sl st into next st, ch3 (counts as 1dc), in next ch2sp make shell, 1dc in next st, *skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next st, in the next ch2sp, make shell, 1dc in next st*, repeat from * to * 22 more times. Skip next 2 sts, sl st in top of ch3 to join. [24 shells with 1dc either side of shell]
Round 12: sl st into next st, ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc in next st, in next ch2sp make V-st, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, *skip next 2 sts, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, in the next ch2sp, make V-st, 1dc in each of next 2 sts*, repeat from * to * 22 more times. Skip next 2 sts, sl st in top of ch3 to join. [24 V-sts with 2dc either side of V-st]
Round 13: repeat Round 12. [24 V-sts with 2dc either side of V-st]
Round 14: sl st into next st, ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc in next st, in next ch2sp make shell, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, *skip next 2 sts, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, in the next ch2sp, make shell, 1dc in each of next 2 sts*, repeat from * to * 22 more times. Skip next 2 sts, sl st in top of ch3 to join. [24 shells with 2dc either side of shell]
Round 15: sl st into next st, ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc in each of next 2 sts, in next ch2sp make V-st, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, *skip next 2 sts, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, in the next ch2sp, make V-st, 1dc in each of next 3 sts*, repeat from * to * 22 more times. Skip next 2 sts, sl st in top of ch3 to join. [24 V-sts with 3dc either side of V-st]
Round 16: repeat Round 15. [24 V-sts with 3dc either side of V-st]
Round 17: sl st into next st, ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc in each of next 2 sts, in next ch2sp make shell, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, *skip next 2 sts, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, in the next ch2sp, make shell, 1dc in each of next 3 sts*, repeat from * to * 22 more times. Skip next 2 sts, sl st in top of ch3 to join. [24 shells with 3dc either side of shell]
Round 18: sl st into next st, ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc in each of next 3 sts, in next ch2sp make V-st, 1dc in each of next 4 sts, *skip next 2 sts, 1dc in each of next 4 sts, in the next ch2sp make V-st, 1dc in each of next 4 sts*, repeat from * to * 22 more times. Skip next 2 sts, sl st in top of ch3 to join. [24 V-sts with 4dc either side of V-st]
Round 19: repeat Round 18. [24 V-sts with 4dc either side of V-st]
Rounds 20: sl st into next st, ch3 (counts as 1dc), 1dc in each of next 3 sts, in next ch2sp make shell, 1dc in each of next 4 sts, *skip next 2 sts, 1dc in each of next 4 sts, in the next ch2sp, make shell, 1dc in each of next 4 sts*, repeat from * to * 22 more times. Skip next 2 sts, sl st in top of ch3 to join. [24 shells with 4dc either side of shell]
Continue working in established pattern for another 18 rounds, working a round of shells, followed by 2 rounds of V-stitches, and skipping 2 stitches between pointed sections. You can refer to rounds 18-20, but increasing the number of dc stitches worked between the shells/V-stitches and the 2 skipped stitches.
FINISHING OFF
Fasten off and weave in the ends using a yarn needle. Blocking your blanket is a personal preference. I chose not to block mine, however if you choose to do so, you can see ‘Finished Measurements’ at the start of the pattern as a guide.
ADAPTING THE PATTERN
Larger Sizes – You can keep repeating the established pattern to create a larger finished object. For a neater finish with nice, pointed edges, ensure that your final round is a shell round.
LOVE TO SHARE?
Share your projects with other makers in our online crochet community, by tagging your picture with the hashtags:
#solsticeblanket #crochetkindly
I’d love to see your WIPs (Works-In-Progress) & FO’s (Finished Objects)! Let’s keep in touch…
I’m on Instagram: @Consciously Crochet
Join our Facebook Group: “Let’s Consciously Crochet Together”
Happy Crocheting!
With Love,
Consciously Crochet Xx
Yarn and Color Play
One of the greatest joys of this Solstice pattern is how dramatically it transforms with different yarn choices. For a crisp, vintage doily feel, work with a smooth cotton thread and a small hook – the 24 points will pop with starched stiffness. If you’re dreaming of a squishy blanket, switch to a soft acrylic or merino blend in worsted weight; the same stitch pattern suddenly becomes a cosy, drapey fabric that begs to be snuggled under. I’ve even seen testers use a cotton-bamboo mix that gave the finished piece a gentle shimmer and a cool, heavy hand, perfect for a summer bedspread.
Color is where you can really play. Because the sunflower motif grows outward in neat, defined rows, it’s a dream for gradient cakes – simply let the yarn do the work and watch the petals shift from golden centre to deep sunset edges. For a scrappy look, tie in a new hue at the start of any round. I love using a soft cream for the very last few rounds to frame the whole piece like a frosted edge. If you’re unsure, lay your balls side by side to see how they talk to each other; warm golds, rusts, and olive greens keep that natural sunflower spirit, while cool pinks and greys modernize it instantly. The pattern doesn’t demand precise colour planning, so let your stash lead the way.
Understanding the Stitch Rhythm
At first glance, a 24-pointed spiral might sound intimidating, but it’s built on a tiny set of movements that quickly become muscle memory. The secret lies in a two-round repeat: one round that increases at the tips of each point, and one that works even to let the fabric lie flat. You’ll notice that each “petal” is formed by a simple shell or fan of double crochets grouped together, and the spaces between them naturally create those curved sun rays. Once you’ve worked through the initi points and then the doubling round that brings you to 24, you’ll find your hook almost moves on its own.
I often tell beginners to pay attention to the turning chain and the way you join rounds. A slip stitch into the top of the first stitch, a quick chain up – that’s the heartbeat of the piece. If you ever lose count, just look for the obvious gaps; the pattern makes them easy to spot. To keep your project portable, I’d suggest placing a stitch marker at the start of the round. It’s such a soothing rhythm: crochet out to the point, puff of stitches, glide across, repeat. Many makers say it’s their favourite podcast-listening project because you can glance at the work and know exactly where you are.
Sizing Your Finished Piece
This is where the Solstice truly shines: you are in complete control of the final diameter. The pattern gives you the fundamental stitch counts to get started, and from there, growth is predictable. For a baby blanket, stop when your circle measures around 90–100 cm across – that’s often just after a few repeats of the main round. Aiming for a sofa throw? Keep going until it drapes nicely over the back of your couch, roughly 130–150 cm. I’ve even seen a floor-sweeping bedspread that used over 20 repeats and measured a glorious two metres wide.
A handy tip: lay your work flat every few rounds to check if it’s ruffling or cupping. A gentle ruffle means you might be adding stitches a little too enthusiastically – try substituting a plain round more often. If it’s cupping into a bowl shape, you likely need a few extra increases; the design is forgiving, so simply add an increase round earlier than planned. Because the blanket is worked in the round from the centre out, you can also switch to a larger hook as you go if you want a looser, airier fabric at the edges. Trust your hands and the fabric – it will tell you what it needs.
- Baby blanket: stop at 90–100 cm diameter.
- Lapghan: aim for 120–130 cm.
- Sofa throw: 140–160 cm gives generous coverage.
- Bedspread: continue until you reach your desired drape over the mattress, usually 180 cm or more.
Blocking and Long-Term Care
Blocking is the final magic that turns your wavy circle into a crisp, flat masterpiece. For cotton or cotton blends, I swear by wet blocking: soak the piece in lukewarm water for twenty minutes, gently squeeze out excess moisture in a towel, then pin it out on a blocking mat or a spare bed. Tug each of those 24 points out evenly, using T-pins to hold the fabric taut. You’ll be amazed at how the petals open up and the lacework defines itself. If you’re using acrylic yarn, steam blocking is safer – hover a steam iron just above the surface without touching, and let the heat relax the stitches into place.
Day-to-day care is just as important. A blanket destined for laps and pups should be washable; most soft acrylics and superwash wools handle a gentle machine cycle beautifully. Lay it flat to dry to preserve the shape, reshaping those points with your fingers while still damp. For delicate thread doilies, a lukewarm hand wash and a block each time will keep them looking pristine. I like to think of the Solstice as a family heirloom in the making – with a little attention, it will keep its sunflower glow for years, whether hung on a wall, spread over a table, or folded at the foot of a bed.
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