Hello lovelies!
Here’s my FREE CROCHET PATTERN, the Butterfly Shawl.
Grow Your Wings With This Shawl Project That Flies Off The Hook!
You can make it to suit any size, from Toddler to Adult!
I have made the toddler size for my daughter and I’m keeping some extra yarn so her shawl can grow with her!
I’ll be making a matching one for me too. I can’t wait for us to wear them together! That is, if my daughter doesn’t steal mine to use it as a blanket for dolly!
The yarn used in this pattern is very interesting, in my opinion. Called ‘Fleur DK’ by Wendy, it has a beautiful, delicate halo, however it contains no animal fiber whatsoever. In fact, it is mostly made from cotton and has equal parts of Tencel (a cellulose material made from wood pulp) and acrylic.
I’m at peace with using acrylic in small quantities if it avoids using wool. Fleur DK is an excellent option for allergy sufferers and vegans. Especially if you don’t want to miss out on the aesthetic of mohair!
The Butterfly Shawl is not dissimilar in construction to my other free crochet pattern ‘Stargazer Blanket’.
It has the same rhythmic rounds of ripples as we so often see in nature. It’s only a 3-row pattern repeat! So, once you’ve got the hang of it, you can easily keep going to make any size you like.
It’s also a very quick, easy project. To make the most of the yarn’s fuzziness, it is worked using a larger, 6mm hook. So it grows incredibly fast!
I can’t wait to make one in my size. My chosen colorway is number 3350 ‘Jasmine’. A beautiful off-white shade.
The printer-friendly PDF for sale in my ravelry store contains 6 pages, complete with extra tips and informative help. By occasionally supporting my little, run-from-home business, I am able to continue sharing my designs for free. A win-win for all!
Butterfly
CROCHET SHAWL
Designed by Consciously Crochet
SKILL LEVEL
Easy – Basic stitches & repetitive stitch patterns
HOOK SIZE
6mm / US J-10
MATERIALS
- WENDY Fleur DK (45% cotton, 22% Tencel, 22% acrylic, 100g/350m),
Freesia (Shade 3353) – 1 ball (for toddler size).
(2 balls will be enough to make adult size)
Finished shawl (toddler size) – 75g (263m).
ADDITIONAL MATERIALS
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
82cm (32¼”) across diameter, without blocking.
GAUGE
12 sts and 7 rows of dc to measure 10cm x 10cm (4” x 4”) using a 6mm hook or size required to obtain tension, without blocking.
STITCHES USED (US TERMS)
chain
double crochet
treble crochet
SPECIAL STITCHES
Magic Ring – I have opted for a Magic Ring at the start of the design, as I personally prefer this method, however you can alternatively chain 4 and slip stitch in the first chain to create a ring instead.
V-Stitch – 1dc, 2ch, 1dc
Shell – 2dc, 2ch, 2dc
Chainless Starting Double Crochet (optional) – see tutorial here: how-to-crochet-special-stitches/
ABBREVIATIONS
ch – chain
ch#sp – chain space (‘#’ denotes number of chains)
dc – double crochet
trb – treble crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
V-st(s) – V-stitch(es)
NOTES
Worked flat, in rows, using V-stitch & shell increases to create 4 large pointed sections with small pointed sections between them.
Across the top edge, a treble stitch is worked at the end of every row. This taller stitch creates some extra stretch to accommodate for the extra length that naturally occurs with the resulting angle.
At the end of each row you can find the number of stitches completed for that row in squared brackets, like so: “[12sts]”.
INSTRUCTIONS
In a Magic Ring:
Row 1: ch3 (here and throughout the rest of the pattern, this first “ch3” of a row counts as 1dc stitch), 7dc, 1trb. [9sts]
Row 2: ch3, 1dc in same st, *2dc in next st*, repeat from * to * 6 more times. 1dc and 1trb in last st. [18sts]
Row 3: ch5 (counts as 1dc and 2ch), skip next st,
*1dc in next 4 sts, ch2, skip next st* repeat from * to * [22sts]
Row 4: ch3, in next ch2sp make: 1dc, 2ch, 2dc,
*skip next st, 1dc in next st, ch2, 1dc in next st,
skip next st, in next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell)*,
repeat from * to * 1 more time.
Skip next st, 1dc in next st, ch2, 1dc in next st,
skip next st, in next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 1dc,
1trb in last st. [36sts]
Row 5: ch3, skip next st,
*in next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell),
1dc in next st, skip next 2 sts,
in next ch2sp make: 1dc, 2ch, 1dc (V-stitch),
skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next st*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell),
skip next st, 1trb in last st. [44sts]
Row 6: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next st,
*in next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell),
1dc in next 2 sts, skip next 2 sts,
in next ch2sp make: 1dc, 2ch, 1dc (V-stitch),
skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 2 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell),
1dc in next st, skip next st, 1trb in last st. [52sts]
Row 7: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next 2 sts,
*in next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell),
1dc in next 3 sts, skip next 2 sts,
in next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell),
skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell),
1dc in next 2 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st. [66sts]
Row 8: ch3, skip next st, dc in next 3 sts,
*in next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell),
1dc in next 4 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next st,
in next ch2sp make: 1dc, 2ch, 1dc (V-stitch),
1dc in next st, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 4 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell),
1dc in next 3 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st.
[see the following note for stitch count]
NOTE: Stitch counts will now be shown as follows:
For example, Row 8 is:
[4 x 4sts, shell, 4sts | 3 x 1st, V-st, 1st = 74sts]
The first part describes the stitches of the 4 large points, in this case, ‘4sts, shell, 4sts.
The next part describes the stitches of the 3 small points in between, in this case, ‘1st, V-st, 1st’.
The last part, ‘=74sts’, is the total number of stitches for that row.
Row 9: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next 4 sts,
*in next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell),
1dc in next 5 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next st,
in next ch2sp make: 1dc, 2ch, 1dc (V-stitch),
1dc in next st, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 5 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make: 2dc, 2ch, 2dc (shell),
1dc in next 4 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st.
[4 x 5sts, shell, 5sts | 3 x 1st, V-st, 1st = 82sts]
Row 10: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next 5 sts,
*in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 6 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next st,
in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next st, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 6 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 5 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st.
[4 x 6sts, shell, 6sts | 3 x 1st, shell, 1st = 96sts]
Row 11: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next 6 sts,
*in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 7 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 2 sts,
in next ch2sp make V-st,
1dc in next 2 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 7 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 6 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st.
[4 x 7sts, shell, 7sts | 3 x 2sts, V-st, 2sts = 104sts]
Row 12: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next 7 sts,
*in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 8 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 2 sts,
in next ch2sp make V-st,
1dc in next 2 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 8 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 7 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st.
[4 x 8sts, shell, 8sts | 3 x 2sts, V-st, 2sts = 112sts]
Row 13: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next 8 sts,
*in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 9 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 2 sts,
in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 2 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 9 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 8 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st.
[4 x 9sts, shell, 9sts | 3 x 2sts, shell, 2sts = 126sts]
Row 14: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next 9 sts,
*in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 10 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts,
in next ch2sp make V-st,
1dc in next 3 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 10 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 9 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st.
[4 x 10sts, shell, 10sts | 3 x 3sts, V-st, 3sts = 134sts]
Row 15: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next 10 sts,
*in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 11 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts,
in next ch2sp make V-st,
1dc in next 3 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 11 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 10 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st.
[4 x 11sts, shell, 11sts | 3 x 3sts, V-st, 3sts = 142sts]
Row 16: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next 11 sts,
*in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 12 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 3 sts,
in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 3 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 12 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 11 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st.
[4 x 12sts, shell, 12sts | 3 x 3sts, shell, 3sts = 156sts]
Row 17: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next 12 sts,
*in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 13 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 4 sts,
in next ch2sp make V-st,
1dc in next 4 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 13 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 12 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st.
[4 x 13sts, shell, 13sts | 3 x 4sts, V-st, 4sts = 164sts]
Row 18: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next 13 sts,
*in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 14 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 4 sts,
in next ch2sp make V-st,
1dc in next 4 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 14 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 13 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st.
[4 x 14sts, shell, 14sts | 3 x 4sts, V-st, 4sts = 172sts]
Row 19: ch3, skip next st, 1dc in next 14 sts,
*in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 15 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 4 sts,
in next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 4 sts, skip next 2 sts, 1dc in next 15 sts*,
repeat from * to * 2 more times.
In next ch2sp make shell,
1dc in next 14 sts, skip next st, 1trb in last st.
[4 x 15sts, shell, 15sts | 3 x 4sts, shell, 4sts = 186sts]
Continue working in established pattern for another 3 rows (for the toddler size). That is, for the large points, always work shells. For the small points, work 2 rows of V-st, followed by 1 row of shells.
As usual, working dc stitches into each stitch, skipping 2 stitches between pointed sections. The last st is always 1trb worked in the last st.
You can refer to rows 17-19, but increasing the number of dc stitches worked between the shells/V-stitches and the 2 skipped stitches.
For adult size, continue in pattern until you reach the desired size.
FINISHING OFF
Fasten off and weave in the ends using a yarn needle.
Blocking your shawl is a personal preference. I chose not to block mine.
ADAPTING THE PATTERN
Larger Sizes – You can keep repeating the established pattern to create a larger finished object.
For a neater finish with nice, pointed edges, ensure that your final row is a shell row for the small pointed section.
2 balls of the recommended yarn will be enough for adult size.
Choosing Your Perfect Size
One of the most magical things about the Butterfly Shawl is how effortlessly it adapts to any body, from the tiniest toddler to the plushest adult. The secret lies in the simple 3-row repeat that forms those signature ripples. Because the pattern grows outward from the centre back neck in a semi-circle, you simply keep working until it reaches the wingspan and depth that feels just right for you. For a toddler size like the one I made for my daughter, I stopped after the shawl measured roughly 38cm from the neck to the lower edge—enough to sit sweetly across the shoulders without overwhelming little frames. For an average adult, I’d aim for a neck-to-edge depth of around 55–60cm, but there’s no rigid number to chase, trust your instinct and the drape of the fabric.
Before you start, do a quick tension swatch in the pattern stitch using your 6mm hook. You’re not looking for strict stitch counts here, because the ripples make a regular gauge tricky; instead, focus on whether the fabric feels fluid and airy without being too gappy. The larger hook opens up the stitches to let the fuzzy halo of Fleur DK really bloom, so if your tension tends to be tight, you might even size up to a 6.5mm hook. Keep a tape measure handy and try the shawl on as you go—drape it around your shoulders, check the length, and remember that the final edge will stretch a little with blocking. If you’re making one as a surprise gift and can’t test-fit, a wingspan measurement of roughly 120cm for a child and 160–180cm for an adult is a superb ballpark.
Yarn Substitutions That Work Like Magic
I completely understand if Fleur DK isn’t available in your neck of the woods, or if you simply fancy playing with a different colour palette. The good news is this pattern welcomes substitution with open arms—as long as you keep a few key qualities in mind. First, seek out a DK-weight yarn that boasts a soft halo or a gentle fuzz. That cloud-like texture is what gives the Butterfly Shawl its ethereal, moth-like charm without any animal fibres. Blends that include Tencel, modal, or a whisper of bamboo often mimic the fluff of mohair beautifully while remaining 100% vegan. Cotton-acrylic blends with a brushed finish can also work, like King Cole Drifter DK or Stylecraft Cabaret DK, though always give the yarn a squeeze in the skein to check for itchiness against the neck.
If you do choose a substitute, crochet a small swatch in the ripple pattern and wash it gently—some yarns bloom more after a bath, while others lose their halo. You want the fabric to remain drapey, never stiff. Avoid 100% plant fibres like plain cotton or linen, which lack the bounce and airiness that make this shawl float off your shoulders. If you can’t find a fuzzy blend, don’t panic: a smooth silk-acrylic DK like Debbie Bliss Donna can look utterly elegant, giving you a different kind of butterfly wing—think shimmer rather than fluff. Just be sure your hook size yields a lacy, open texture so the shawl doesn’t turn into a dense blanket. And always buy an extra ball, because running out mid-ripple is a heartbreak I wouldn’t wish on anyone.
Stitch Tips for a Flawless Finish
Working with a fuzzy yarn and a larger hook can feel a little giddy at first, as if your stitches are floating away from you. I found it helpful to angle my hook slightly downward on each yarn over, giving that halo a gentle nudge to wrap neatly rather than catching where it shouldn’t. The 3-row repeat is rhythm itself once you settle in: alternate between shells and clusters, then a row of simple trebles and chains. To keep your stitch count perfect without constant stopping to count every loop, place a stitch marker in the centre chain-2 space of each ripple’s “valley” and “peak.” These markers will be your best friends, especially if you’re crocheting in the evening with a cup of tea and a film on—just a quick glance tells you everything is where it should be.
Inevitably, you might spot a mistake a few rows down. Because fuzzy yarn hides a multitude of sins, you can often fudge a missing stitch or an extra chain by discreetly easing the next shell over it. If you do need to rip back, go slowly—those delicate fibres love to hug each other—and use a blunt tapestry needle to gently separate loops. After the final round, I highly recommend a full wet blocking. Soak the shawl in lukewarm water with a splash of gentle wool wash (even vegan fibres appreciate a spa treatment), roll it in a towel to remove excess water, then pin it out on blocking mats. Stretch the points of the ripples into sharp little peaks and let it dry completely. You’ll be amazed at how blocking transforms the fabric from pretty to absolutely professional, opening up the lace and giving the edge a crisp, finished look.
Styling Your Butterfly Shawl
Once your shawl is off the hook and ready to wear, the real fun begins. I love draping mine with the centre point at the back of the neck, letting the wings sweep forward over my shoulders like a cosy hug. For a more bohemian feel, I sometimes wear it backwards—point at the front, ends trailing behind—and pin it with a vintage brooch for a bit of sparkle. My daughter, being a tiny tornado, prefers hers tied around her neck like a superhero cape, and honestly, I approve. Because the shawl is so lightweight, it layers beautifully under a denim jacket or over a simple linen dress, adding warmth without bulk. You can even fold it in half and wear it as a generous scarf, tucking the ends into a belt for a chic, thrown-together look.
If you’re making these as gifts, pair a shawl with a handwritten note about how many stitches went into creating those ripples, and you’ll have a present that feels deeply personal. For a baby shower, a toddler-sized Butterfly Shawl in soft cream or blush makes an heirloom-quality blessing shawl, while a deeper jewel tone like amethyst or forest green turns the adult version into evening-wear perfection. I’ve also seen makers add a simple chain loop and a wooden button at one edge, allowing the shawl to be fastened into a little shrug—pure genius. However you style it, this pattern truly grows with you, reminding you gently that a little lightness and a few repeating ripples can lift your spirits, stitch by stitch.
